The Neighborhood Goddesses

Rome: Thursday, March 10

This was my first full day back in Rome---another sunny giorno with a vivid sky and cream-puff clouds. In the shade, a serious coolness, a reminder that spring is still an infant. Today I slept until after noon, missing breakfast (nothing special at the Portoghesi) and housekeeping, which led to a later toilet paper crisis.

Walking around was hard; my spine was still in bed, trying to recover from airports and long flights. But it was good to reacquaint with some of the neighborhood goddesses---Navona, Rotunda, Pietra. These beauties still have the power to enchant and communicate.

Late in the day, I once again visited Volpetti's shop of magic food. This time was to create a roof-top spread for expected visitors. Two kinds of proscuitto, a wedge of middle-aged Pecorino, a runny and sweet lump of Gorgonzola, some bubbly-crusted bread, fresh green olives, three kinds of suppli and a big slice of veggie frittata.There, I thought, that should do it. Back on the terrace, I awaited company. The sun faded into a star show in the cold, clear air.

Wine and water showed up, carried by five enthusiastic women traveling slow in Rome and a few other choice destinations. We ate, we ran down to the hotel desk where the good cork-screw was, for several opening sessions. White wines of Frascati, the Veneto, Campania Greca, and other places. Reds from Toscana, Puglia, Umbria. My old friend Floriana was also in attendance, in fine Roman form, sharing her native's eye view of all things Italian. We saw Orion overhead in the heart of Rome. Images were captured on digital devices and everyone snuggled deep into their coats, scarves and hats, wanting to extend this time of gathering.

The evening ended as I knew it would, with my brain on overdrive from the good talk and ambience of the Roman night. Eventually, sleep came, my happy rescuer.